Malnad Diary

Nandi Thota

May 12, 2008

We were checking the repairs done on the fence in the east where we came upon these rocks whose story our writer told us. A bull went grazing up the slopes beyond the stream that flows by these rocks. Those were days when the village by the stream did not exist and thick jungle covered [...]

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Getting to know…

May 10, 2008

Dharmappa found our plantation for our property agent. A powder crumb of what we paid the agent went to Dharmappa, which he knows, so he is looking for how to make more money off us. One idea has been to get labor, whom he offers to transport in his jeep, squeezing fifteen humans into an [...]

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Why did you come here?

April 29, 2008

He sat down, rested his vanity bag on the shelf formed by his belly and after he’d arranged the stuff from the bag about him he considered us who were sitting before him. We’d been waiting a short while from ten-thirty, the time we’d been told he arrives for work. He raised his brow. We [...]

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A negotiation with a villager…

April 24, 2008

…was not easy. I needed a small piece of land on the North to gain access to the “highway”. Some barren land, whose Eastern edge is mere marsh during monsoons. I threw a price that I’m sure was reasonable. He threw back a stunning counter-offer. Then he socked me, saying he has an offer from [...]

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First brush

April 18, 2008

Sujaya and I went shopping for stuff for the plantation. “Beware the fertilizer,” we’d been told. “It is often out of stock.” We went to the Tata Plantation Supplies in Sakleshpur. It is a quiet store on a yard behind a busy bus-station. The name of its manager is Muthapa, a serene young Coorgi who [...]

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far from…

April 3, 2008

“Have you bought a gun?” Kanva asked me. “Whatever for?” “Here in Sakleshpur, we don’t talk much. We shoot if things drag beyond a point.” I have heard such a line many years ago, delivered by Eli Wallach just after he shoots down a too-talkative attacker while bathing in a small wooden tub holding a [...]

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…change, again

July 28, 2007

In June, I wrote about my trip to the vast land area laid waste by the backwaters of Gorur Dam, and of the church in ruins there. What I saw then was barren land awaiting fresh flooding from imminent monsoons. I was in Hassan this week and went again to the church, curious to see [...]

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Neighbors

June 16, 2007

We drove into our neighboring village and stopped where an ox stood tied in the middle of the narrow lane. On our left was the village-well, next to it a red-brick shed with straw and dung everywhere, and by the corner of the shed a hen with her chicks, tense, unblinking. To the right of [...]

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…change

June 11, 2007

We discovered a neat narrow road from Magge to Hassan with no pot-holes in it. Mid-way en route, from a high bridge, we saw a Western-style building in ruin, and many cattle on a wide landscape. We walked over to the building and met a lone man grazing cattle for their owners. He spoke of [...]

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